Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 2: Entrancing Escape

My mind feels uncertain, but my feet feel strong. 

They feel like they’ve been searching for this path all along.

The rocks are sharp, the water is cold.

A little part of me feels like I am again ten years old.

I crawl across the surface like a crab.

I hope that this adventure will not turn out bad.

The sea rushes into the cave like it doesn’t know how to behave.

My heart rushes. 

A little blood out of my leg gushes, but I move on towards the opening on the other side.

This little rock cavern is the perfect place to hide.

I’m finally outside. 

I feel free, though this feeling doesn’t come from being out of the cave’s reach.

I find myself here.

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 3: Intrepid Curiosity Part 1

     At this point in the trip I had lost track of the date. I couldn’t remember how long it has been since I’d gone a day without recording it in some form. I was beginning to feel like the dreams I had as a child were going to stay in the past, but this trip contradicted that completely. My dreams of exploring an island without restraint, climbing rocks and riding unknown waves were being realized. 

    There was a point today where we crossed between islands. The wind was blowing 20 knots into the face of our boat. We all picked a spot in the bridge to sit and stayed there. Usually we go from down stairs to upstairs upwards of 15 times fetching drinks, magazines, food and so on. Today everyone stayed put and kept busy by watching the swells break over the bow. It was nearly nauseating, but it was one of my favorite moments from the trip. I felt adventurous and intrepid, like we were doing something bold. Really we were just changing our location to see some new sights, but it felt compelling.

 The most daunting part of the expedition came later when we pulled up to a perfect peeling, barreling right hander. It seemed ideal, but that was the problem. I had to surf. How could I pass up this incredible opportunity?

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 4: Intrepid Curiosity Part 2

     We didn’t even know if this was a surf spot, but on this swell it became one. After watching the wave break for about half an hour. I casually mentioned that I think I’d like to come back tomorrow and check it out, but that tonight I was going to take it easy. “I’m going” Scott responded. Ugh! My heart disagreed with my mind. I knew this meant that I was going too. Not because he would ever force me, I just knew in my heart I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to surf an unknown wave.

    I watched the spot as I put on my wetsuit. The wave was treacherous. Before it turned into anything you could survive it exploded like Niagara Falls onto a fierce rock point. That was intimidating, but what made me the most anxious about this spot had nothing to do with what was above the surface. All I could think about as I paddled 200 meters through thick kelp forests towards the wave was how much I looked and felt like shark food. 

    When we finally arrived at the spot Scott grabbed a wave right off the bat. I watched as he free fell until his rail grabbed the face and he glided past me with style. I was next. I paddled into the wave and rose to my feet. It was intimidating, but relief found me just as my feet found the wax. Riding the face of this unfamiliar wave felt like a magic carpet ride. It seemed like it should be fictitious. I couldn’t contain my excitement and I let out a little squeal of joy.

    In the end the session was more than worth it. It was wave riding experience I will never forget. 

San Diego-"One Summer's Day"

One Summer’s Day

 My Nezzy 5’4” quad and a Go Pro Hero Camera made this video possible. Music: The Avett Brothers, Song: “At the Beach”, Filming: Scott DeMint, Editing: Devon Holloway YouTube Version

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 5: Perspective

   I had originally set out on this voyage because I felt that the playful moments from my childhood were missing from my adult life. I wanted to get away from everything that didn’t evoke inspiration. 

    I just wanted to awaken my daydreams where I was a reckless adventurer instead of a boring adult. I wanted to play and roam free. Surfing allows me to do exactly this so it seemed appropriate to use it as a means to achieve these feelings daily. As I would soon find out, it shouldn’t, however, be the only way. 

    One evening I gushed to my father about how much I loved this trip. “It gives me the feelings I want out of life” I explained. A stillness hung between us. I thought he would have filled this silence with some comment relating to how I needed to make a change to my life if I wasn’t finding adventure and joy from what I was doing. Instead, he looked up at me and said 

    “Everyday is an adventure. You just have to be open to embracing them.” 

    Prior to this excursion I felt that surfing was one of the only ways I could experience adventure and freedom in an adult world. After listening to my dad’s advice I now realize that I need to recognize and produce pleasures in all life experiences. Every day has potential to be filled with adventure.

    I thought this trip would give me perspective on how to change my life. In the end this trip taught me how to change my life perspective.