The other day I surfed this spot in Ventura called Emma Wood. Mostly, I surfed like crap and all these groms kept taking waves from me. Then I got this good one Scott took pictures of. Then I fell on a closeout left that wedged up in front of me and knocked me head first off my board. I was eating sand. It tasted like fish and salt and dirt. The next morning I woke up with a sore neck and couldn't get out of bed.
I'm mostly feeling better now.
the end.
14 comments:
Oh jeez... be careful my friend! I hope you feel much much better soon
Wow,great pictures! Hope you feel alright :) You areso brave to surf these waves!
awesome pictures!
Nica pics...
Get better soon..
And try to get your grains(of sand) elsewhere.;-)
Next time you hit that wave, you'll get it!
After you heal, you'll know those waves :-) Maybe not right away, but eventually!
yuck to eating sand. hope you'll be recovered soon!
just a few weeks ago i was in bali, and there's a ripcurl surfing event. it was really cool and there were lots of surfers from around the world. and i immediately remembered you :)
i wish you & Scott could be there.
Oh no! Darn that Emma Wood...go back and kill her. Haha.
The pictures turned out great but I hope you're feeling way better by now. Be careful out there!
Happy weekend!
xoxo, The Brazilian Way of Life]
www.camilagcarneiro.blogspot.com.br
Pictures are amazing!
I've always admire cool surfer girls! So rad :)
Ouch... glad you are feeling better and that you didn't get seriously hurt. I am sure it's a gamble anytime you're heading to shallow waters.
Yikes!!! Braver than I am!
Yikes! I hope your neck is all right!
Sounds painful! At least you got some pretty cool pictures out of that wave!! :D Hope you are feeling better!!
Yikes, guess it comes with the territory. A bad day surfing is still better than a good day doing anything else though, right?
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